First of all, the carburetor must be TOTALLY disassembled to be cleaned properly. This includes removing all brass plugs, steel plugs, ball plugs and fittings as required. Just “running a wire” through blind circuits may get the tractor to run after a fashion, but we have found that circuits must be brought back to their original sizes to restore the air/fuel balance designed into the carburetor, whether one or two barrel. Some of the items listed are in duplicate on a two barrel.

Here’s a list of what we clean:
Bowl air vent circuit
Economizer air vent circuit
Idle needle chamber
Idle needle air vent
Idle needle fuel orifice
Idle chamber air/fuel horizontal orifice
Idle air/fuel vertical passage
Idle air/fuel horizontal passage
Idle air/fuel orifice
Nozzle chamber
Nozzle air vent
Nozzle orifices
Nozzle bore
Load needle orifice
Load compensation orifice
Load jet
Transition orifice
Fuel inlet chamber and drain
Fuel inlet passage
Fuel inlet screen

Here’s a list of what we inspect; recondition; replace as required:
Throttle shaft and bushings
Throttle disc and screws
Throttle stop pin and stop spring
Choke lever and shaft
Choke disc and screws
Stem threads and bowl nut
Main nozzle and spring
Float and float valve
Strainer bolt, lid and screen
All brass plugs, steel plugs, fuel inlet and drain petcock
All gaskets, o-rings and seals as required
Any missing parts

Here’s a list of our test and adjustment procedure(s):
Float test (three steps: visual, leak, weight)
Float install test (side play, liquid level, interference)
Idle passage flow test
Leak test of assembled carburetor
Run test on tractor (idle, transition, acceleration, load)